Amandayan’s outdoor pool and private cinema might be a first in Lijiang, but with its tranquil courtyards and traditional design, it feels as much a part of the Old Town as the winding streets and pretty bridges of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. At its heart lies Wenchang Palace, a Qing-dynasty building used for cultural demonstrations and ceremonies, but ancient teaching endures too in the kitchens of the Man Yi Xuan restaurant and in the wisdom of Taoist therapies. Beyond the Old Town, a region steeped in folklore entices visitors to delve deeper into China’s far southwest.